"It would be pleasant to be able to say of my travels with Charley, "I went out to find the truth about my country and found it." And then it would be such a simple matter to set down my findings and lean back comfortably with a fine sense of having discovered truths and taught them to my readers. I wish it were that easy. But what I carried in my head and deeper in my perceptions was a barrel of worms. I discovered long ago in collecting and classifying marine animals that what I found was closely intermeshed with how I felt at the moment. External reality has a way of being not so external after all."

John Steinbeck
Travels With Charley


So,

Off I go, from Anacortes, Washington to Lubec, Maine.

Sunday, March 26, 2017

So Far

Well, we just spent three delightful days with old friend Debbe Kucaj and her husband Michael Brooks reliving old memories, making new ones and touring the Austin area.  Great friends.  Great hosts. Great weather.  Great city.  Great food.  Great time.

PROGRESS.

Austin marks the mid-point of our trip.  We left home just shy of two months ago on what we expected to be a four month trip and yet it's hard to believe it's already half over.   To get here I've put over 1,000 miles on the odometer and have climbed over 40,000 feet.  I think it's the climb that most surprises me.  My knee is back in order and I bike along now unencumbered by this old bag of muscle and bone.

Now what's with this?  We chose a west to east route for one critical reason:  we are lazy and expected to be swept along by a prevailing west wind.  West wind, where art thou?  I can count on one hand how many days we have had a tail wind and still be left with four extra fingers.  Usually there is a southerly and easterly component to this meteorological phenomenon and when the weather gods offended, straight out of the east.  What's with that?

The roads out here are paved with boulders (see photo).  Some days my hands, arms and shoulders are more sore than my legs.  Road shoulders?  Generally pretty good.  Traffic?  Generally not too bad.  Tired of my complaints?  I just don't want to give the impression that I'm having too much fun.

Come on.  You call that a road?


TEXAS HILL COUNTRY.

In the course of a day's ride we transitioned from desert to the Texas Hill Country.  The change was a welcome one.  It was nice to see trees and grass after a month of sand and scrub.  Only one complaint.  Texas Hill Country is full of hills.   Do something about that Texas and you've got yourself a winner.  The rest of the story I'll tell in photos.

Welcome to Texas Hill Country

Are those Trees?

Gotta be Texas, thems long horns partner

Texas Bluebells

Still pumpen water with old fashion windmills


OH THE PLACES  YOU'LL SEE.

Gila Hot Springs.  Tucked in the Gila Mountains are the Gila hot springs, natural "sweet" springs.   The term sweet is used to indicate that the water doesn't contain sulfer which is often associated with such springs.  Just regular old water.  We camped there on the way to the Gila Cliff Dwellings.  Three pools full of the stuff at a temperature of over 100 degrees awaited the weary cyclist.  I credit the rapid healing of my knee to the magical healing power.  Despite temperatures below 20 degrees at night it was glorious to lay about the pools and stare at the unobstructed night sky.

Hillsboro.  On the other side of Emory Pass we found the town of Hillsboro.  A small town of about 200 full time residents and free camping in the city park.  We made fast friends with a few of the locals.  Gretchen became our official guide letting us in on all the local secrets.  The cafe in town served a great breakfast and I even picked up a new Maine joke courtesy of a transplant from New Hampshire.

When in Hillsboro don't forget to stop at the only café in town


Las Cruces.  Great little town in New Mexico.  Visited the weekly street market on Main Street, enjoyed a local pub and some great pizza.  The folks at the local Chevy dealer accommodated to get the van in for an oil change.

Marfa.  Famous for the "Marfa Lights".  Mysterious lights in the desert no one can figure out.  Come on kids- put away the flashlights!  Famous for the filming of the movie Giant.  And now famous for being famous.

When in Marfa be sure to stay in the tee-pee.


Hatch.  World chili capital of the world?

Are you feeling chili?
(sorry, couldn't get my pictures up for the other towns.)

and so many others.

THANKS.

Here's a note of appreciation to all that are looking after things at home.  Thanks, Paul for keeping an eye on things at the house. Thanks, Peg and Becky for all you're doing in the wake of Jim's death. Thanks Doug for getting our furniture delivered.  Thanks, Ed and Paul for your trip up from New Jersey to see Mom.  And, of course, thanks to Bill and Lee.  Thanks Bill for getting us on the road with the camper and thanks Lee for your kind attention to Jim, he really enjoyed your visits.   Thanks all for your phone calls.

4 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. Hey John, Sounds like you and bev. are having a great time and making good progress. I'm surprised I haven't heard any rattlesnake stories yet. They're all over the south. When you get home I'll tell you about my close encounter with a coral snake in Florida. We had a good visit with Mom. She bought a new mattress. I don't know why the old one was only 25 years old and stiff as a board. One of these days after you finish supper and are relaxing would you give me a call? There are a couple of items I want to talk over with you. I hope you continue to enjoy your trip. Ed

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  3. Who's this guy Austin, and what's so great about his "area"? Why does he get to mark the mid-point of your trip? How did he mark it? Sharpie?
    -suspicious of Austin

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    1. Last name "Powers". I dunow he just said I'll mark the mid-point so I was like ok.

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